Biserica Coconilor
You stand in the center of Târgoviște, where the ground itself is history. Beneath your feet lie the filled-in ditches of the medieval fortress. In 1427, a crusader noted this city as a capital. By the mid-15th century, these walls were the largest in the country. You are walking on the defensive perimeter of Wallachia’s power.
Look up at the Chindia Tower. Its octagonal shape is a stark reminder of the 15th century. Built during the reign of Vlad Țepeș, it served as both a watchtower and a symbol of authority. The name is said to blend 'Chin' for punishment and 'Din' for from, hinting at the chamber within. It is the oldest standing structure here, a stone anchor in a sea of later changes.
The complex was not always a ruin. In the late 17th century, Voivode Constantin Brâncoveanu rebuilt the court with Ottoman consent. He reconstructed the palace in 1695 and added churches and pavilions. His style, the Brâncovenesc, is visible in the intricate stone carvings and arched doorways. For a brief period, this was a place of prosperity and artistic refinement.
But fire and earthquakes were relentless. A Russo-Turkish War fire in 1735 and a later earthquake damaged the structures. Repairs in the 1740s were poor, leading to vault collapses in 1785. Another fire and quake in 1802 caused definitive ruin. In 1821, Alexandru Ipsilanti tried to restore the ditches for defense, but the Ottoman approach ended his attempt in embarrassment. The ditches remained visible until the 19th century.
Today, you see the results of 1961 conservation. The defensive ditches were filled, and buildings constructed over them. The Stone Pavilion, built in 1701 for relaxation and guests, stands as a testament to the court’s former life. It is a quiet place now, a shell of the residence where voivods once lived. You are looking at a palimpsest of war, faith, and decay.
You are standing in the heart of Târgoviște, a city that served as the capital of Wallachia. The ground beneath you is not flat; it is a map of lost fortifications. In 1427, the crusader Johann Schiltberger mentioned this city as a capital alongside Argeș. Although his work was edited later, it suggests fortifications existed by 1396. Internal records from 1417 confirm the presence of a princely court during Mircea the Elder’s reign. Archaeological findings support this early date.
Look around you. The scale of what once stood here was immense. By 1431, Târgoviște became the sole capital of Wallachia. The fortifications expanded, possibly during the reigns of Vlad Dracul or Vlad the Impaler. After the mid-15th century, these walls were the largest in the country. Matei Basarab later doubled the wall thickness, rebuilt the defense ditch, and added ten bastions. A document from November 17, 1476, mentions the fortress’s governor, highlighting its military importance. This was a serious defensive system.
Your eye is drawn to the Chindia Tower. It is the most iconic medieval structure remaining. Constructed in the 15th century during the reign of Vlad Țepeș, it served both defensive and symbolic purposes. Its distinctive octagonal shape and strong stone walls are a testament to the military architecture of the era. The name 'Chindia' is believed to be a blend of 'Chin' (punishment) and 'Din' (from), referring to the punishment chamber located within. It guarded the court and the town.
The story of the court shifts in the late 17th century. Voivode Petru Cercel expanded the citadel’s interior area in the late 16th century, improving utilities. But the most significant transformation came with Constantin Brâncoveanu. With Ottoman consent, he partially rebuilt the fortifications. In 1695, he reconstructed the princely palace. In 1699, he built the Church of Saint Great Martyr George. These structures reflect the Brâncovenesc style, known for beautiful stone carvings, arched doorways, and decorative elements.
Brâncoveanu’s vision extended beyond the walls. In 1701, two dependencies were constructed outside the fortifications: the Casa Iazagiului and the Casa Coconilor. The Stone Pavilion, also built in 1701, sits within the princely gardens. It was used for relaxation and hosting important guests. The pavilion features elegant stone columns and a serene atmosphere. These additions show a court that was not just a fortress but a place of residence and diplomacy.
Prosperity did not last. Following Brâncoveanu’s canonization and the permanent relocation of the capital to Bucharest, the walls began to deteriorate. The Russo-Turkish War of 1735–1739, fought on Romanian territory, severely affected the constructions. A fire broke out at the Princely Court. Later, an earthquake decisively damaged what remained of the fortified enclosure. The physical fabric of the court was under constant threat from war and nature.
Attempts to repair the damage were inadequate. Prince Grigore al II-lea Ghica carried out repairs between 1748 and 1752. However, they were of poor quality. The palace’s vaults collapsed in 1785. A new fire and earthquake in 1802 led to the definitive ruin of the architectural complex. The once-impressive fortifications were reduced to rubble. The defensive ditches, however, remained visible until the late 19th century.
In 1821, during the Greek War of Independence, Alexandru Ipsilanti, leader of the Eterists, uncovered the defensive ditches. He attempted to restore the old fortifications, hoping to revive the glory days of the medieval citadel. His attempt ended in embarrassment when news arrived that Ottoman armies were approaching Târgoviște. The ditches were studied and described by Cezar Bolliac. Over time, urban development filled them in, and buildings were constructed over these irreplaceable vestiges.
The modern face of the court emerged in 1961. The last significant restoration and conservation work was carried out then, opening the remnants of the old fortifications to tourists in their current state. Since then, only archaeological surveys and minor conservation works have taken place. The Hunters Gate, also known as the Dealu Gate, entered a complex restoration process in 2023. It was completed in 2025, reintroducing it to the tourist circuit alongside the Chindia Tower.
You are looking at a complex that has survived through layers of neglect and revival. The Church of Saint Great Martyr George, built in 1699, boasts intricate frescoes and an impressive iconostasis. The Casa Coconilor, built in 1701, reflects the Brâncovenesc style and may have accommodated officials. The complex includes other outbuildings and utility structures that were crucial for the court’s functioning. These components are integral to the historical significance of the site.
The Târgoviște Princely Court is a complex of medieval buildings and fortifications. It served as the residence of various rulers of Wallachia and played a relatively important role in the country’s defensive system. From the octagonal tower of Vlad Țepeș to the stone pavilion of Brâncoveanu, the site tells a story of power, art, and destruction. You are walking through the ruins of a capital that no longer exists, yet remains present in the stones.
